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行走在微笑的国度——老挝游记
Walking on the land of smiles----Laos


8月20日,结束了琅勃拉邦的工作,我们又坐上那架中国援助的新舟60,飞回万象。经过了琅勃拉邦的5天,万象在我们的眼中也显得相当现代了。回到现代文明的怀抱——哪怕并不算太现代,感觉还是很舒适的。
1560年Lane Xang王朝的君主Setthathirat,将首都由琅勃拉邦迁到万象,并修建了著名的塔銮(That Luang),虽然历经重建,塔銮至今依然是万象的象征。1565年,国王下令修建皇家寺庙Wat HO PRAKEO, Ho老挝语的意思是房子,Pra是佛,Keo是玻璃,意思就是住着玻璃佛的寺庙。这个玻璃佛的来历,说起来也是大大的不简单。公元1434年,据信史记载,那年夏天的一个午后,一道闪电击中了泰国北部清莱(Changrai)的一座佛塔,寺庙的和尚们在佛塔的废墟里找到了一个石灰做的佛像,僧侣注意到佛像鼻尖的石灰有些脱落,里头隐隐泛出一种翠绿色。和尚们想办法把石灰层去掉,才发现里面居然是一整块天然翡翠雕成的翡翠佛,绝对的无价之宝。百姓们知道这个消息,都去向翡翠佛顶礼膜拜。几年后,当地的统治者Lanna(兰纳)王朝的国王想方设法,将翡翠佛弄到了玫瑰之都清迈,安放在Chedi Luang寺里。到了公元16世纪,清迈国王去世了, 膝下却无子嗣,正巧国王的女儿嫁给了老挝国王,生下了一个Chaichettha王子。于是Chaichettha王子就被请到清迈,作了Lanna王朝上门的国君。可没几年,老挝国王也去世了,Chaichettha又得回国去接父亲的班。临走时他带上了Lanna王朝的镇国之宝——翡翠佛,并告诉大臣们他还会回来。可是从此国王连同翡翠佛,不再返回,就这么留在了老挝,和金佛Pra Bang一起成为老挝的两件镇国之宝。据说这两件重宝不能放在一起,否则会有灾难降临,日后的历史验证了这个预言——Lane Xang王室迁都到万象后,将翡翠佛供奉在了专门为其修建的Wat Ho Prakeo。 这样一直过了两百多年,直到公元1778年,泰国将军Rama,也就是后来著名的Rama一世,率军攻陷万象,并将翡翠佛抢回了泰国,至今仍然供奉在曼谷大皇宫东北角的玉佛寺里,记得几年前在曼谷似乎还看到过。今天的泰国网站的介绍:“翡翠佛象征着泰国人民抗击外国侵略的光荣历史和精神”。几个老挝朋友说起翡翠佛,依然是惆怅满怀,感叹良多。
是否可以说,老挝的历史,就是这两尊佛的历史?
余下的几天里,我们抽空在万象城里转了几天。万象最热闹的地段,应该就是在 Samsenthai路和湄公河边的Fa Ngum路之间的地带。这里云集了各大酒店,餐馆,酒吧,咖啡屋,是外国游客聚集之所。每到晚上华灯初上,湄公河边坐满了纳凉的人群,远眺对岸泰国乌隆的点点灯火,菩提树影婆娑。不似国内娱乐场所的喧嚣嘈杂,这里的人们都很安静,佛国古都的气质,足以让人陶醉。

老挝人喜喝啤酒,当地的Beer Lao口感不错。红酒多从法国运来,价格不贵,Kua Lao 里的干红,干白更是桶装窖藏。 当地人的主食是糯米饭,从竹笼中用手捞出,捏实了蘸酱食用,有点像藏族的糌粑。老挝米粉类似中国的米线,热汤里有肉元。旁边一盘青菜,自己加入汤中烫烫,挤半片柠檬入碗,十分清爽可口。
和泰国一样,城里的交通也主要依靠三轮摩托车,人们戏称为嘟嘟TAXI,到城内各处大致都是每人5000kip,合人民币约5块。似乎也有巴士和的士,只是数量很少,没有机会尝试一下。几个著名景点如塔銮,Wat Sisaket, Wat Ho prakeo, 总统府,凯旋门都隔得很近,天气凉快的话步行亦可。
老挝被称为微笑的国度,当地人民以善良,温和,质朴闻名。的确,在老挝的十多天里,没有遇到任何令人不愉快的事情。老挝人的善良,忠厚一直在感染着我。在机场收建设费的服务人员可以不关收银柜就去接电话,老挝人停车吃饭甚至都不锁车。老挝人虽经济拮据,但却极少偷盗,抢劫,行乞。他们安贫乐道,生活的满足。只是老挝人似乎太习惯了悠闲的生活,很难跟上现代商业社会的节奏。所以老挝经济发展相对缓慢,市政设施如路桥,医院,大都来自外国援助。也许这就是上天的安排,让世上存留这么一片净土,我们就当为这片净土作些施舍,不也是一件功德善业吗?
再见,老挝,你这微笑的佛的国度。我想我会再来!

On August 20, after finishing the work in Luang Prabang, we took on the New Ship 60 assisted by China again to return Vientiane. Through five days living in Luang Prabang, Vientiane is more modern in our eyes. Returning to modern cultivation, even it is not so modernized, we also feel comfortable.

In 1560, the King Setthathirat of Lane Xang Dynasty moved the capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, and built the famous That Luang, although it was reconstructed for times, That Luang is still the symbol of Vientiane. In 1965, the King ordered to build the royal temple Wat HO PRAKEO, Ho means house in Laos language, Pra means Buddha, Keo means glass, together it is means a temple living with a glass Buddha. The history of glass Buddha is not simple.

In 1434, according to true history, in one afternoon of that summer, a lightning hit a pagoda in Changrai north of Thailand, monks in the temple found a figure of Buddha made of lime in the wasteland, they noted that the lime on the figure’s nose was falling, and a emerald disappeared faintly. So they wanted to remove the lime layer, and then found that it was a natural jade figure of Buddha, it was absolutely a priceless treasure. When all people knew the information, they came to the temple, kneeled and worshiped the jade figure. Several years later, local ruler King of Lanna Dynasty moved the jade figure to the city of rose Chiangmai and put it in Chedi Luang Temple. Till A.D. 16 century, the king of Chiangmai passed away, but he had no son and heir, just in time his daughter was married to the King of Laos, and they gave birth to a son Chaichettha. And then Prince Chaichettha was invited to Chiangmai and acted as the King of Lanna Dynasty. However, several years later, the King of Laos passed away, Chaichettha had to return Laos to succeed his father. He took away the precious of Lanna Dynasty——Jade Figure of Buddha, and told his ministers that he would come back again. But after that the King together with the figure never returned since then, and left in Laos. The figure became one of the two precious of Laos together with Gold Buddha Pra Bang. It was said that these two precious could not be put together, otherwise disasters might come, the later history proved the predict——after royal family Lane Xang moved the capital to Vientiane, the jade Figure of Buddha was sacrificed in the specially-build Wat Ho Prakeo. More than two hundred years later, General of Thailand Rama, the famous Rama I captured Vientiane, and rubbed the Jade Figure of Buddha to Thailand in1778. Till now it is still sacrificed in Temple of the Emerald Buddha at northeast corner of Grand Palace of Bangkok, it was still there several years ago. Today, as introduced in network of Thailand that, Jade Figure of Buddha represents the splendid history and spirit of Thailand people to fight against foreign invaders. My Laos friends also felt disconsolate and exclamatory when talking about it.

Whether we can say that, the history of Laos is the history of the two Buddha figures?

In the last days, we toured in Vientiane city. The busiest place of Vientiane should be the area between Samsenthai road and Fa Ngum road besides Mekong River. Here, hotels, restaurants, bars and cafes are gathering, which are the habitat for foreign visitors. At every night, many people sit besides Mekong River to overlook lights and whirling banyans of Thailand Udon. It is not as noisy as recreation places of the domestic, people are quiet here; the temperament of Buddha capital is charming enough.

Laos people like drinking wines, local Beer Lao is nice. Red wines are mainly imported from France and not expensive, dry red wine and dry white wine of Kua Lao are stored in barrels. Sticky rice is the main food of them, get the sticky rice from the bamboo and knead to enjoy with sauce, it is just like Zanba of the Tibetan. Rice noodles in Laos are similar to those of Chinese; there are meat balls in the hot soup. Get the green vegetable besides in hot soup and pit half a piece of lemon to your bowl, it is so salubrious and tasty.

Just like Thailand, communication in the city mainly depends on motor tricycle, people call them Dudu Taxi, it only takes you 5000kip to everywhere of the city, amounting to RMB 5. it seems that there are bus and taxies, but very rare, I have no chance to try. Several famous scenic spots just like Wat That Luang, Wat Sisaket, Wat Ho prakeo, office of the president and triumphal arch are not far away, you even can walk there if it is a cool day.

Laos is called as a country of smile. Local people are kind, gentle and simple. Certainly, I have come across no unhappiness during more than ten days there. The kindness and loyalty of Laos people always inspires me. Service persons for collection construction fees in the airport can answer a phone even when the cash cabinet is open; Laos people stop their cars for dinner even with their cars unlocked. Although they are not so rich, few or no stealing, rubber and beg. They live contentedly as a poor scholar and satisfy with their life. But Laos people seem to be used to the leisure life, it is difficult for them to go step with the modern society. Therefore, the economy of Laos is developing slowly, public utilities such as roads, bridges and hospitals are assisted by other countries. Maybe it is in the cards to leave a Pure Land in the world; some charities are also our merits and virtues to the land.

Farewell Laos, a Buddha country with smiles, I do come back again!

 
 
 
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