作者简介：
Jall Beresford ，英国自由栏目作家，现居英国。

　　只要一想起长江三峡的壮美景象和奇特地理景观，人们就不禁心旷神怡地想去长江乘船游览一番。长江这条大母亲河，她哺育了多少生命、创造了多少杰作啊！她不仅是构筑了人们赖以存续的重要交通体系，还是连接人类文化古迹胜地的关键枢纽。她一泻千里，展示出大自然的迷人魅力。时代的演进，改变和塑造出她的美丽景致；人类的力量如今正改变着她的容颜。
在长江三峡水位被提升几天后的一个星期一，我登上了一艘从武汉始发的游轮。按照行程计划，我们的游船将上水行进五天后，在当周的星期五抵达重庆。我曾经问过那些在大坝建成前乘船游览过三峡的旅游者，当然也看过不少有关的图片，但是有很多体验如果不亲身经历你是感受不到的，特别是变化后的新三峡更需亲身体验。登上游轮置身于长江之中，从各种不同的全新角度去欣赏这种生活体验，方能印证各种诺言是否属实。长江确实是一条伟大的生命支撑大河，但关于她的传言也是非常普遍，如果不亲身体验将很难印证。
　　当我们一抵达位于宜昌的三峡大坝，就感觉仿佛置身于一个活灵活现的世界中。在通往大坝这个神奇建筑物的通道里，各种不同重量级别的船只被用船锁牢牢地连接在一起。在一个狭小的通道中，我们的游轮和另一艘游轮，还有三艘小一些的船只，都彼此依偎在一起。巨大的船闸在我们身后开始缓缓合拢，呈现在我们眼前的则是一堵高高耸立的混凝土墙面。水利系统立即启动并开始抽水，同时将我们庞重的船体向上缓缓抬起。我们亲眼看着自己被缓缓抬升，慢慢超出刻度线，渐渐能够不太费力地得见阳光了。仅仅是通过这道由五级船闸构成的宏伟大坝工程，就耗费了我们大约三个小时。随着最后一道闸门的开启，库水将我们带入到一片开阔水域。此刻，我们依然忍不住回首观望这项人类史上的伟大建筑奇迹。
　　当游船以优雅的姿态穿过第一道峡谷时，一种强烈的期盼和放松的感觉从内心洋溢而出。第二天一大早，我们换乘了一艘小一点儿的渡船，开始向神龙溪进发。神龙溪的溪流水深深的、绿绿的，昭示着逆流而上的岸边险峻岩石上长满了苍翠繁茂的绿色植被。我们的渡船向溪流上游行进，而湍急的溪流仿佛喘着大气似的从我们身边冒着白泡，奔逝而过。此时此刻，惟有照相机拍摄发出的嚓嚓声，才略显声音大些。就事论事，如果这里的溪流水位高一些的话，恐怕要更好些，但尽管如此，这丝毫没有令我们身边的壮美景观有所逊色。应该坦诚地说，我还从未见过如此壮观的景致，可以令我达到瞠目结舌的地步。一位同行的中国游客兴致勃勃的指着溪流两岸高耸岩壁上的木制棺材，解释说这些木棺是在远古的时候就被人们悬挂在山崖岩壁上的，如今这些岩壁经历了岁月的漫漫侵蚀，先前的这些木棺也不知何故被嵌入到山岩的洞孔之中。我至今仍然不能明白古人是如何做到这点的。要在远古时候做到这样的事情，见到这样的景观，显然是一件极不容易的事情。
　　穿过这些峡谷后，我们被分成小组，坐上了小木筏，由当地的船夫划着桨带我们继续向前行进。那溪流水又清又浅，简直清澈见底。当溪流水越来越浅、越来越稀时，船夫们开始用那种非常古老的方式，用绳索牵着木筏，藉着岩石用力拉纤前行。直到溪流水深到可以再次优雅地划桨时，我们才被放筏漂流，顺水而下。沿途给我们做讲解的导游小姐，现在唱起了动人的民谣。虽然我听不懂歌谣字面的意思，但她的韵律和音色却超越了语言的差异，深深打动着我。她的歌唱丝毫没有牵强和滞塞之处，那声音就如同周边的大地一般美丽而自然。这段经历给我留下了非常独特而深刻的印象，令我终身难忘。返程的时候，当被渡船带回游轮之前，我们还观赏了一场简短而富有色彩的地方舞蹈表演，作为一种款待。这个美好的上午行程给我的感受真是妙不可言，我实在很难想象下午的行程中还会有什么更精彩的内容等待着我们。

　　之后，游轮载着我们驶入巫峡，开始向“小三峡”行进。我们改乘一艘机动快艇。当我们向“小三峡”行进的途中，峡谷中巨大的岩石在狭窄的谷道中巍然耸立，这种景观真是奇妙极了，我至今都无法找到合适的词汇去描述这种景象。附着在赤裸的巨石上的各种绿色植被和其他物质，将岩石雕凿成各种姿态和样式。峡谷中高高耸立的岩石挡住了炎炎烈日，将我们置之于最黑暗、深绿色的峡水之中，溪水在峡谷中静静的流淌，而峡谷则将我们紧紧地拥抱着。这种感觉就仿佛被邀请到一个神秘之地，只有非常尊贵的人才拥有分享这种快乐的特权。随行的导游告诉我们说，以前这里的水位太低了，因此无法乘船进入如此深藏的峡谷腹地之中。我们此刻的感觉就仿佛像探险者一样，每经过一个拐角就得到一种不一样的视觉感受，能够感受到猴子在稀疏的丛林中玩耍嬉戏，色彩亮丽的鸟儿在清澈的溪水边沿翩翩起舞，古树林木道被巨大的岩石荫翳起来。极不情愿的鸣笛之声响起，昭示我们即将返航。在这个“小三峡”中，我们整整行驶了将近五个小时。这“小三峡”简直可以称作是“宏大”峡域，在里面完全看不到什么所谓的“小”的峡石。回到船上时，我多年储备的充沛体力早已变得疲惫不堪了。
　　行程结束时，感觉到整个旅程精彩纷呈，仿佛是享受了一次特殊礼遇。能够体验各种不同方式的航行经历，领略东方神秘文化遗产，还能坐着小木筏旅行，这些无疑使我们的这次旅行如同度过了一个欢快的 假日。整个游览行程中，无论是对行进时间还是对观览地点，都作出了精心的包装和设计。新三峡的奇特旅游价值，绝对不比以前逊色。如果时间足够宽裕，旅行者可以登上从武汉到重庆，或者从重庆到武汉的游轮，利用难得的假期在这里得到充分的松弛、愉悦。遗憾的是，在游轮上度过了五天美好时光的我们，享受了盛情的款待和丰富的美食，如今却又不得不离开这个短暂的“家园”了。另一件遗憾的事是，我们不得不向同行的伙伴们道别了，大家在一起不仅相处甚为融洽，而且还分享了一段难忘的旅程。“虽然，你可以通过图片或是透过文字的描述来了解、走进长江和三峡，但是最真切、最独特的感受还需要你亲身去游历和体验。”当我渐渐远离那艘游轮的时候，这句话依稀在我耳边反复回响。

Before even considering the prospect of the 'Three Gorges' and the geographical spectacle they present, there is the sheer wonder of sailing on the Yangtze River. In itself the river is the backbone of so much life. It is both a vital transport system for working survival as well as a connection for ancient sites and traditions as it cuts its way through natural beauty. Evolution designs a change in scenery but so call man. In June 2003 the opening of the renowned dam and the flooding of the river to raise the level of water to 135 meters has created a large reservoir with all its implications. Figures don't really help to envisage what the change will mean especially since change is hardly ever all good or all bad. Before the flooding there were numerous travel reports in foreign press talking about 'last chance to see The Three Gorges ' 'Three Gorges lost and such like. Having just sailed through them since the change I question 'Where have they gone?' 'Have I just dreamed all that magnificent scenery?' Those reports seem a distant echo-ringing hollow off the rock that has stood solid for thousands of years and continues to do so. I joined our cruise ship on the Monday a few days after the river had been raised. The plan was to sail for 5 days upstream arriving in Chongqing the following Friday. I had spoken to people who had sailed the flip before the dam and of course I had seen pictures but there was still the unknown of making the 'voyage' oneself especially in its redesign. Boarding the ship and selling in held all the promise of suddenly seeing life from a whole new point in the middle of a huge river. There is a definite 'buzz' swarming over the Yangtze as though it is indeed a life support system and it proudly knows so.

Reaching the dam in Yichang puts you personally into living history. We approached the run of boat locks with a deference fitting to the amazing construction. We took our slot with one other cruise ship and three smaller boats nestled between us. Huge gates closed behind us and we stared up at a towering wall of concrete. Hydraulic systems immediately set to work pumping in water to lift on bulky weight. Seemingly effort lastly we watched ourselves climb up the meter stick back into ale sunlight. It took around 3 hours to lift us through this engineering marvel of 5 locks. When the final gates opened we were released to sail forward into a languid expanse of water but there was still an urge to peer back over your shoulder at the technological feat behind. As the ship pushed on elegantly through the first of the Gorges there was an intense feeling of expectation and freedom. Early next morning we boarded a smaller ferry to take us up the Shennong Stream. The deep green of water reflected the lush green abundant on the steep sides of rock framing our progress. As we cut upstream leaving furrows of white foam in our wake there were gasps all around at the stunning way ahead. Only the click of cameras sounded louder. As a fact the level of water had to be higher but was it significant to dwarf the supreme glory surrounding us? I have to say with nothing previous to compare I could only stare at such natural beauty with an open mouth. A fellow Chinese traveler was excitedly pointing out the wooden coffins hung in ancient times down the cliff face and somehow slotted into holes eroded into the rock. I still can't work out how. ln the past it was apparently not so easy to see these phenomena.

Coming through the gorge we divided into smaller boats ably paddled further upstream by local boatmen. The shallow water was appetizingly clear and fresh showing every detail to the bottom. When the water became too sparse the men amazingly pulled the boats by rope over the rocks as they have done in the past. We then drifted back with the bubbling current until waters again became deep enough to paddle gracefully. The girl giving commentary on the way up now began to sing a traditional story. Though the words were lost to me through my own lack of understanding the melody and voice were above language differences. There was nothing contrived or forced in her singing; it was as beautiful and natural as the land surrounding. It made for a very special poignant passage back, one I will never forget. On return we were treated to a brief show of colorful dancing before taking the ferry back to the cruise ship. I wondered how that fantastic morning be matched by anything else but then I had no idea what awaited us in the afternoon.

The ship took us through the impressive stretching Wu Gorge to moor for a trip into the three mini gorges. We transferred into small-motorized boats. I still have difficulty finding the words to describe the awesome sight of sheer giant rock sides narrowing the way ahead into those gorges. The contrast of bare stone carved into unfathomable shapes by the elements stood stark and imposing against the rich green vegetation trying to cling to its support. When the height of the cliff blocked out the glare of sun we were dunce into a cool exclusive world where the darkest green water lapped quietly against the sides of the gorge hugging so close to the boat. It was like being invited to a secret only the honored were entitled to share in. The guide told us previously the water level had been too low to take the boats so far into the gorge. We felt like true explorers where every comer turned seemed to offer a new vision with monkeys swinging deep into trees, brightly colored birds dancing at the water's edge and ancient plank paths magically seemed to the rock face. It was a reluctant turn around to trace back our voyage. We spent nearly 5 hours motoring in the mini gorges, which would have been more aptly named majestic since there was nothing small about them. Back on ship we were left with all invigorating exhaustion I wanted to preserve.

The next day took us onto the Quantong Gorge, the third and final of the mainstream, and one so narrow we had to wait for oncoming traffic to pass through firstly. Our turn came with heightened anticipation. We were not disappointed as every angle of scenery played truly magnificent as we respectfully sliced our way through brown silted water. You couldn't help but feel the power of nature all around. As a foreign traveler I pictured the page from an atlas in my mind showing Asia. My inner eye raced to the definition of exactly where I stood. The excitement of reminding myself I was sailing through the famous ' Three Gorges ' on the Yangtze River was incredibly humbling.

Further on our way we made fascinating side trips to ancient sites including the White Emperor City at Fengiie, the Shi Baozhai Pagoda at Feng Du and later the Ghost City with its incredible sights, relics and legendary tales. And as I understand these are but a sample. These enthralling visits back in history obviously continue as before the dam and strongly as ever show how life has been shaped around the great river at its soul. Sailing onto Chongqing through wide valleys gave time to relax and look back on the thrill of the Gorges. I spent many hours sighing on the rear deck of the ship idly watching life on the riverbank float past. Over the tips of the hills the haze seemed to keep us hidden in on seclusion away from the bustle in the rest of the world. For the foreigner trying to cram so many wonders of China into their one trip of a lifetime this interlude gives a welcome time to take a second breath. Many 'must-sees' are in the cities, which have to be known between so cruising on the Yangtze provides all ideal way to see a different rural side to China.

In the end the whole adventure felt to be a privilege. The variety of sailing, excursions to ancient sites and oriental culture, and the smaller boat trips miles this cruise a holiday in itself. Cruises are tailored to time available and distance that call be covered within the schedule. The New Three Gorges is not a diminished experience and if time allows it is great to make use of relaxation as well sight-seeing to have the full value of sailing from Wuhan to Chongqing or vice versa. It was sad to finally disembark from the cruise ship, which had proved home for 5 days with excellent hospitality and food. It was sad saying farewell to the fellow travelers not only for their good company but for the feeling that you had just shared a very special journey. You can look at pictures, read descriptions but for something so unique as the Yangtze and its Gorges you really have to see it for yourself. As I walked away from the ship it was the only echo that still resounded loud and clear.